October 2nd, 1870 122 days out.
Lat. 15 degrees. Long. 102 degrees.
We are in the tropics again, and the sun is almost overhead. What
changes of climate have to go through. Today the thermometer is at 80 degrees in the shade. A week ago it was 56 degrees. Last week we were in flannels and heavy thick clothes, today in linen and duck, and uncomfortably warm at that. We left home four months ago yesterday. We are now just half way round the 102 East, 74 West- 176 degrees, nearly 180 degrees which doubled gives 360, circumference of the Earth. When I went to school the schoolmaster used to tell us China was right under our feet, that their night was our day, etc. Now –vice versa. Home is right under our feet. Well, the “world moves”, and at last things completely changed.
How clearly illustrated in this case! So we had been actually blotted out of this world, so to speak. The last four months, then 22 paces these ____ wills, this same sea & sky is all we have seen!! Do people realize it? No land, not a nothing has passed our vision! If a man should go to
sleep and sleep- or die for four months, it would be counted a miracle, but not more in it’s effects, than the last four months to us.
We are very busy now, cleaning ship for port, all the hidden corners are ransacked for dirt. Everything is brought to light and air. Now we find where the rats lurk, where they carry their bits of cheese, rice etc. It is scrub, scrub, wash, wash away, and all this to promote health in a sickly port, and general comfort. 23 men huddled up in a ship will breed disease if not closely watched in a sickly or torrid climate. At sea it is not so bad, the germ free air, the salt water every morning, every manly exercise, all guard against sickness.
But in port, it is different. The water is still or stagnant, deadly miasmas
arise. Men are not required to move about so much. Distemper lurks in over ripe fruit and vegetation. The eye of the mates engaged in other affairs is not so much on the cleanliness of the crew. And all this Capt. Deck Bucket set forth to the crew at the last Sabbath morning service, insisting that all bedding should be picked over, ticks, washed, etc. and as he has an uncommon, clean and orderly crew, he hopes it will be attended to. The cabin boy is the dirtiest of all the ships company. The more he cleans, the more dirt he makes. Will he, will he- get up and ____-from three in the morning till 8 or 9 at night is all the same. It is a long trial.
“A sail- a sail a promised prize to hope,
Her nation flag- how speaks through telescope.”
The telescope could not tell us, for she was a speck on the ocean, and did not come near. Now we shall look for land in a day or two, and with it plenty of sails. It is an anxious time for Deck Bucket to make, or discover the first land aright. But trusting in the old sailor maxim-“Look out for the three “L’s”; Latitude, Lead, and Lookout” and trusting in Him who knows, we steer boldly on.
Off Java Head. Indian Ocean October 7th, 128 days out.
“Here we are”, we have got through the tropic trade winds and monsoons
and are now within an easy day of our destination. Everything goes well, but dreadfully slow, no sickness, no accidents. The first vessel we saw this week was an “Englishman”, we asked him his Longitude for 120 days out at sea, without seeing any land or speaking with any ships- one feels anxious- but he sailed away without a reply, and he too just from port, bound home. So much for the Brittishes. The next was a Dutch Bark, the Principe Alfonso, 129 days from Hamburg, for Shang Hai. He told us all about it, and his longitude; he hoisted before we asked him. It was nearly the same as ours, this was very…
…pleasant and satisfactory. At last, last night Capt. Deck Bucket told them to keep a good look out for they would see land in a few hours, and to call him. At 10 o’clock he went on deck, and there was a terrific squall of wind and rain just ready to strike the ship. George! How the orders rang out.
____up! _____ up!! ____ up sir, was the reply. Down your staysails! ____ up L’ sal sails. Let go your mizzen topsail halyards. Bravely the old ship veered off before the wind, just as it struck. Gracious how it (whitted?) and rained, but she was all right. The sails are in. Now keep her back to her course again. Aye-aye sir! and direct us through the gloom and rain so thick that you can’t see 20 feet. We hold our way by the needle for…
…Java Head again, finally it moderates, the wind ceases, the rain is over, only the lightning, which sets the whole Heavens ablaze, is left.
Capt. Deck Bucket, goes below, wet to the skin. Changes his clothes,
down on his lounge to spring at the first call. If he had not gone on deck- over half these sails would have blown away, perhaps the masts with them, so much for having a Captain. He dreams of his darlings, now they are sailors, standing by his bedside watching the barometer and all such absurd things. At 3 o’clock, the mate taps, “I can see the land Sir!” all right keep her right for it. At 4 he goes on deck and there is “Java Head” all from that fragile little instrument, the chronometer. And like the greatest navigator Columbus, he falls on his knees and thanks God. Yes! 10 months ago we were maneuvering about here three or four days trying to get out to sea, wondering of wife, children, all we wished has…
…added to us, and here, as the head of this paper says, “There we are again.” And so we go.
We have had a great time in the cabin, cleaned out, painted every part of. Fitted
up two nice state rooms, one on each side, with green and red- Damask curtains, and carpets, looking glasses, wash stands, white bedding, a model of the Fearless in one. One of the Franklin in the other. Another room for (slop?) chest and store room. Made the water closet large and airy, put the medicine chest in there. Fitted, painted and carpeted his own room, having washed the old ____ up so they look quite nice. All the chairs are re-fitted, old stools new bottoms and painted brackets put up. One would hardly know it was the same cabin. It looks so clean, cool, airy and large with all the door thrown open, window nicely curtained, etc. Captain D.B. says why I could have fixed this for his darling, when she came to live on.
I tell him, that had his cabin full of cargo all the way home and another thing, he swore he would not make any changes to the ship without the owner’s consent, which he got on arrival at New York.
Captain D.B. had a boy aft the other day, cutting his hair short, which he always does when coming in to hot weather, the head keeps so much cooler and is less inclined to fever, when I heard him ask the boy if he saw any grey hairs. Yes Sir! a few. Where? Behind your ears Sir! He tried to get sentimental on it, but that turn does not come so often as it once did. But he could not help looking back to the time when he thought such a strange thing for a man to grow old and have grey hairs. Yes, says I, you are growing old Bucket. Your sands are fast running out, and it’s about time you had grey hair, that’s so says D.B., and I have had enough to make my hairs turn grey too. This terrible long passage is enough to turn any man’s hair grey, I told him he need not grumble about that, for the bark he spoke was two days out, and would be fifty…
… more when he got to Shanghai, where he said he was bound to. So come now! We have had a flogging scene on board. The steward told the captain the other day that the sugar was all gone. What? Says Capt. D.? 250 pounds of sugar
gone? 2 pounds a day? Yes sir, The fact is captain, the sugar has been stolen. The cabin boy has given it to the men, so the whole story comes out. Lynn B. Land of Haverhill state, on oath, that the boy had gave him sugar on several different occasions for sundry services, and he thinks that the other men have got it too. Cabin boy says, God knows ‘Cupen, I never give Lynn sugar, but the proof is too strong, coupled with a good many other things, so Capt. D. ____ his painful duty to punish the boy. He has talked and talked all the passage, but now this thing must be stopped, so he orders Mr. Vannah, to whip him, and not be cruel. Mr. Vannah takes a swall rope, and a few lashes the boy confesses a great deal, a few more, and he fall to his knees, clasps his hands and pleads for mercy. Capt. D. gives the order to stop at once, and it makes him feel bad, but he thinks if it was his…
… own child he would do the same, and if it had been the biggest man on the ship he would have done it too. Anything but a thief, when I give away anything, and
everything that can be spared says Capt. D.
Cleaning out the cabin. We had a great time with the rats, they did not like to have their favorite haunts disturbed, so they battle stoutly to the last. Old Nancy, the cat, with her son Thomas, assisted by the people are too much for them, and they are exterminated. Nancy has been with us since San Francisco, and is death to rats, and though Tom is only 5 months old, he will take a rat ‘most as big as he is.. I don’t know what the rats live on now, there is nothing in the hold for them but ice, rather cool diet. We have not near so much vermin as we had, the ____ and weevils, have been a terrible trial.
As we passed the reef off Princes Island today, the remains of a noble ship lay there, the surf beating over her, all her masts, gone but one, and that
partly, with a few tattered sails hanging to it. Her head was down under water, and she looked sad enough. It is a mourned sight to see, and puts one in mind of a body after death. And it sets all kinds of conjectures afloat. Did brave lives go with that ship? Where her Captain? Where her crew? An echo answers where. Did the booming cannon, ring out their death knoll? Read Falconer’s poem, the ship wreck, and see what an awful thing it is. And we have a noble new American ship go out to sea, with her pyramid of snowy cotton canvass, “Homeward Bound.” How their hearts until, what joy at the ecstatic ____ home.
God carry them safe to their loved ones, anxious ones are waiting for many a board that beautiful ship.
We had a tremendous rain squall this afternoon, the light sails all ____ up, we waited for it. It came with a roar of a lion, chopping the water all up, fine and white, and put me in mind of the time when the fisherman used to haul the seine on our shore as they gathered the fish into the shoal water- they splashed the water just as it looked this afternoon. Nothing illustrates the smooth surface of the water torn up by a sudden squall so well. All hands are drenched through, but they laugh at it, they have washed everything inside and out, bought half of the captain’s soap, and now they strip and have a glorious with water themselves. We caught so much rain that Captain D.B and myself have a …
… splendid bath every morning. It was fun watching the sailors washing their forecastle, everything out, the engine? hose lead in, and water flying over
them in all directions, sometimes the man with the pipe turning it full in their faces, till they could not see.
I like to see them happy, poor devils. They have to go through with trouble enough. I cannot but note the difference between this and running through those heavy gales down South, yet that was laughable too, sometimes. For, one day we were running in a heavy sea, a young fellow Tom Pryoran from Bristol England, was steering and Tom was going over the ground to a great rate, at last a heavy sea hit the rudder and made the wheel kick as the sailors call , and the first thing…
…I saw was Tom going over the wheel, like the fabled (Ixion?) of ancient
(Sketch of Tom at the wheel here)
So I will end this paper, the 128th day from Boston having sailed:
1400’4 nautical miles, 60 of them to a degree,
And 69 ½ ____ ‘or thou miles to a degree.
Sunday, October 9th Straights of (Lunda?)
The last 24 hours we have made just 23 miles! Little wind, sometimes on one side, then on another. Then calm. The great mountain peaks of Java, Sumatra
and adjacent Islands are all round us, lifting their grim heights to the Heavens. Last night when the the lightning was playing round their summits, they looked weird enough. Today we have been sailing alongside the Dutch Bark we spoke the other day, all her people peering over the rail at us with their Dutch faces, and white hair and eyebrows look queer enough. The Captain lays lazily in his hammock ogling us through his spyglass. We already feel acquainted, there is something about the life of a sailor that makes all waters and people that follow it friends and acquaintances at once. We are about 30 miles from Anjer, and can just see it and a few days would put us in Batavia, but we can’t make the wind, and so it’s no use talking.
We have spread our awnings for the first time today, for it is 90 of the
The queer looking Javanese Lattern sailed fishing boats are in sight, and we plainly hear the thunder of the breakers on the shore. It is a great change to us, and yet we come to it as naturally as though it were yesterday that we left it. By the way, one of the cocoa nuts that we got on passing here last year is on board now.
Capt. D.B. had a dream night before last, he layed down on his sofa to take a nap, for he had to roam on deck every hour, and getting asleep, he rolled so near the edge as to nearly go off. So he dreamed he was an assistant engineer on a steamship, that the orders…
…came to clean the boilers out, they were full of hot steam, and I did not want to go in, but I started, hold ON! Says the engineer, who was one of our Irish sailors forward, Don’t go, there’ll be a row, a blow up here soon, And sure enough, up
she went. D.B. woke up with the sofa on his legs, the skin knocked off his shins and a good hard thump that made him see stars, finding he was going off in his sleep, he had put his hand up and caught hold of the back of the sofa and pulled it over with him, and on top of him of course.
Yesterday the sea was full of Cuttlefish. The mate, seeing an unusually large one, tried to get it in a draw bucket, but Gus Graves, hove a rope over and went down after it like a cat, Like a Schiller’s Diver, brought it to his prince at once. It is a perfect one, nearly a foot long and takes it place among my curious. This Graves is a little young fellow from Duxbury, Mass. The smartest, and most agile and fearless sailor I ever saw. He will go where it is dizzy to look at him. He…
…had a brother Frank with me last year. I mean to make a third mate of him.
The only time I ever saw a nautilus was in its natural element, was once in these Straights. It was a beautiful sight, he was sailing and paddling off at a great rate
and few ever see him thus.
Cleaning up the cabin the other day, Capt D.B. had his slop chests all out and open, some of the sailors in there at work were captivated by the nice red shirts and duck pants, and bought armfuls of clothes, then there was a grand rush for trade from forward. It was fun to see the sales go on. That night, the largest part of the goods were gone. If one buys a thing, they all want to buy. Tobacco is the principal thing with them, they average 2 pounds a man. It came very handy for the old man wanted move his chests and paint them up in his new store room. I guess Mary would think her…
..father “Kept a store.”
His purchases were so well made this time that he can almost sell goods as low as they do on shore, and good ones too.
was mine. I looked at it and said no. He said he found it tied up under his berth, with a new pair of scissors, and he had seen Larrio, the Indian boy, with one similar. Larrio says I? Yes Sir. That’s it. My wife lost one of her tea spoons just before I left home, and suspecting Larrio, told me to examine his things in Boston, I had so, but found no spoon, the cunning thief had taken this method to secret it. I believe as near as I can recollect, it is one of the set my wife has. At any rate. I’ve got the spoon and scissors and shall carry them home and see. “So robbery as well as murder, will out.” The cook said he saw Larrio watching him very close when he scrubbed his room out, and that accounts for it.
-Javanese Fishing Boats-
Well! We sailed dreamily along all that afternoon. And when night came
the moon shone out so clear and bright, that I decided to run all night. At 8 in the evening, we passed all the ships that were ahead at anchor. They would not run. Now the numerous Islands that skirt the coast of Batavia came out one after another, sending their perfumes to us like sweet incense from a better land. At daylight, we are very near Batavia Road. The ships astern at anchor, spy us out and one by one they hasten after us. Then they come round the Island that comes between us and them, their white sails seen over the trees. Like a procession they come, stately and grand, with the brave old banner of Holland waving proudly from each. But the Star and Stripes lead them this time. The “Yankee” has got ahead. Now numerous boats came off from shore The ship’s appron ____, are all known in town and many a husband…
…and father is hastening to restrain his family to his bosom returning from Fatherland, we can see with a glass, the gauzy dresses of the ladies, their handkerchiefs fluttering in the breeze. But a headwind comes off and we have to
anchor, 10 miles from the town. But soon we are underway again and with a fine sea breeze we are pushing up to the harbor. At last, a boat alongside. Letters, letters for the Captain. How nimbly the ladder is flung over, how we wait upon the stranger. He is a runner, a solicitor for a ship chandler. He has got our letters at the office, which he knows will make him welcome. But the letters! Mr. Hannah-three for you, Mr. Mustard- three for you, Mr. Lynn B. Ladd, gets five, and so on. None for me?? Not one Pilgarlic? Ha-Ha ____ Deck Bucket, “Well, nine must be on shore.” And Pilgarlic gulps down great swallows of disappointment. Well! What word? War! War! And are awful over in Europe. War? How, between who? Why France and Prussia? Thousands upon thousands killed. The French defeated everywhere…
Napoleon a prisoner. Shame! Shame! Where are the brave French. Why are they thus defeated? We stand appalled at such news. Well! We pass ship after ship at anchor, and at last we are well inside and down goes the anchor. 135
Days from Boston, having sailed 14780 miles.
“Hoarse over her side the ____ cable rings,
The sails are furled and answering round she sings.”
Now quick, man the boat, away for the shore. And off we go in a Batavia boat, they call them (Landbanyans?), with a Java crew. We turn our heads round to look back at the ship that has borne us so many miles. She looks rusty and battered. But she is a dear, dear ship after all. We sail sail nimbly into the river, walled up each side with granite, which makes a canal of it. Hundreds of boats are going and coming. Their crews singing the Java native songs, and it as a lively scene, one that brings back days long past, when our young heart, light and free, looked boldly into the world, for fortune and fame. Sixteen years ago, we sailed up this same river on our first voyage to Java, first voyage mate.
We come to the landing called the Boom Custom House. There we are waited upon by the officials, find our Consignee, Mr. Pearson, and the owner’s
agent, Capt. Freeman. Not a word of reproach on my long passage, why lots of ships have been longer. One last year, 180 days. Well, Captain ___ and Mr. P. we will go off in the morning and begin to discharge and meantime (it is now after business hours) for the hotel. No! I want my letters! None at my office says Mr. P. well says Freeman, let us go round to Dawler & Co. the consignees of the ____. A carriage! Then a dozen at once. Pretty little ____ with two Ponies, and a Java driver. Off we go, at the office, no letters. What can this mean? Another swallow of disappointments, and we drive off tired and cross, to the “Hotel De Marine”. What a change. Dinner at 8 PM, a large room, and a bed as big as my cabin. Well it ain’t bad, and after a long conversation about the ship, the War, home, friends, we go to a sound sleep on shore.
In the morning by half past five, for everybody here gets up early before the sun gets hot. Mr. Pearson came for me to take me to the boat. The drive is about two miles and a half, along a ____road, perfectly level, lined with glorious old
trees, that I never saw before. One is the Tamarind, and there is the Teak, and cotton wood and many others, but all very large and grand. Along each street nearly, there runs a canal, filled with natives in the morning, bathing. What splendid hair the women have, those rides we took every morning, and I never shall forget them.
We did not do much at cargo that day, but as everybody was out of ice on shore, we discharged a little, everybody uses it if they can get it. It is sold by the Tudor Company at five cents a pound, everybody goes to the (Sedown?), as all ____ are called, for it. Years ago, when I was mate and we brought it out, it sold for 10 cents a lb. and the Dutch gave a large bounty for it. But there is opposition now and the bounty down away with.
Saturday morning I met Capt. Bursley, also Capt. Thayer of the ship Rainbow in the same employ. He had just been up to Singapore to take up one of W. L. Weld & co’s. ships for Capt. Howes who was sick. We found Capt. Proctor of the
Borneau here, so then were five of us; W.L.W’s Captains all here at once. Proctor is a splendid looking man, about six foot and four tall, rather pursy, fine hair, full beard and moustache, stone grey and is as heavy as Bursley and I both. He weighs two (Pecules?) Thayer is about my size, better looking. Bursley is tall, gaunt, and bent, teeth all gone, and quite bold, but a wiry hard nut. Freeman is a fine looking man of about 190 lbs, carrys his head well, and takes us all together, we make quite a respectable show at the (Table D’Hote?) At least we eat on shore.
Sunday, we had a quiet day. No work, went to the King’s plain and heard the band play, at 8 PM, it was a fine sight, all the society of Batavia was there, representing the wealth, the government, the Army and the Navy. It was a fine set, seen at the gorgeous sunset.
Monday we began our cargo in good earnest. It had melted away about three feet. Forty native coolies done the hoisting, while our own crew in the hold, broke out the ice and looked on in. During the week we discharged 100 tons a day. It was delicious to go down into the hold and take the air down there, after being on
the hot deck. The ice has to go about three miles in prows or lighters before it reaches the ice house. Much of it melts. There are many Dutch Men O’ War in the harbor, and the Tudor Company gives them a piece of ice each day, so we were literally besieged with navy officers, with notes asking for it every day, so passed away our ice cargo. Meantime the Captains lived on shore, each visiting his ship every morning. After the business of the day was over, about one o’clock, we drove back to the hotel, had our lunch, which is called “Liffen” in the East Indies, then lay back, read, wrote, slept, etc. till time to bathe, dress for dinner etc. About this time the verandas, the rooms open out, are crammed with peddlars who come to sell the wares and produce of the country. To strangers it was real funny…
…to the babel of languages, Chinese, ____, Dutch, English and French- our boaters consist of all nations. Mostly Dutch captains, most of them have their wives, we will get soon acquainted, The hotel is kept by a widowed lady with two
pretty children. She has seen better days, been well educated, but her husband dying two years ago, left her destitute, and she has the sole management of this house now, and she does it well. Everything is neat and clean, and the cooking excellent. It is quite a sight to see, the boarders going to the bath. Men, women and children, they go dressed on purpose, the men with a loose cloth around them and a china jacket. The women, with the same kind of a cloth, called a sarong, but a longer jacket of white, called a (Kobish?) Our folks at home would think it rather loose, but nobody minds it here. The (granderes?) have a little black servant to carry the towels and soap, the bathrooms are large and of marble, and the water is always cold, everybody goes in for comfort here, and don’t care much about what other people say or think, and it’s so amusing to see how quick everybody that comes, fall into the customs of the country.
Wednesday evening we rode out to the Botanical Gardens, there was beautiful music by the staff band, and a fine gathering of the people. They were in fine dress, but all bareheaded. Nobody wears a hat in this country in the evening. The grand old trees made canopies for the tables at which social parties set, and
order what they wish. How nice it would be in our country in the summertime. The gardens are three miles out, and they have a hall for dancing; swings for children, cages for the different wild beasts of the country, and everything that is pleasant. A few evenings after, we went out to a dance, merely to look on. It was not a fair night, and we did not see a good turnout. But there were some very pretty ladies there, many of the ____ or ____ of the country, they are all on par with the best blood of Holland and should think conspicuous. Everywhere are the groups of fierce looking military officers, with their dark blue uniforms, golden sashes, sparkling buttons, and jangling sabers. They certainly make a very picturesque appearance in these beautiful evenings. From the dance we went to the military club where the staff band gave an open air concert. The music was of the best kind and finely executed.
This is called the Concordia. Here we find Captain Bursley and Mrs.(Cluss?), a passenger in his ship. Hers is a sad story. Highly connected and everything in the world to make life pleasant, she has now lost every ____ by death and herself lives a poor invalids life. Her husband was confined to his room three before his
death and she took the sole care of him. The doctors say she pulled all the vitality and life out of herself into him and never recovered it. She can never sleep on shore now without taking a medicine, I have forgotten it now. At sea is the only way she can live, so she goes all the time. One of the owners was a passenger with her to Cape Hartzen, and now permits her to go in and of the ships all the time, all alone. She don’t want anybody to take care of her, for she don’t care how soon she dies. . She is very brilliant at times, not many know more than she does, at times her eyes flush with a fire-it is hard to see, then goes away into perfect apathy. Her only pet is a parrot. She carries all the time.. It sits on her shoulder and talks to her and thinks everything of her, and put me ever so much in mind of the raven in Dicken’s ____ ____ ____. Mr. Pearson says he can’t bear to talk to her on account of her eyes.
When I say we, I mean Mr. Pearson for he carries me everywhere in his carriage.
Sunday evening, the George Peabody was ready for ____ ____ one of the adjacent ports, Samarang, as Capt. B. and his passenger went off, she was very
anxious to go onboard the Franklin, Capt. B’ old ship, so I went with them, There was a good deal of sea on, and some rain but she did not mind it a bit. We had supper on board, and she overhauled my books. Next day they were to go but two of her sailors had stolen a ____ and run off. So they did not get away, next night two of their men swam on board and stowed away on my ship. We found them the following morning, and the mate took them on board, bound hand and foot.
Mrs. Cluss was showing us some of her photographs one evening at the hotel, when I asked whose it was I held in my hand. I thought I had seen somebody like it, that says she was a fellow passenger of mine to ____ once. A Mrs. Nichols. I thought so I said. Do you know her? When did you see her? Well, she boarded with a very intimate friend of mine, a Captain Goodwin, and when I was in Boston with the…
… The Fearless once. My wife and I were to go there. She and my friend’s wife came on board the ship and we afterwards got quite well acquainted. “There! Says she I am so glad, now I have something to write about.” She is almost a
sister to me, but she doesn’t live at Capt. Goodwin’s now. She has a nice home of her own. Then she brought out her last letter and read me how she had been on board an excursion train and had a dreadful fright, most of the train was thrown down a precipice and many were killed or wounded.
So something turns up every day. I have since ____ she (Mrs. C.) writes long letters to Mr. Weld so his Captains will get setting out I expect.
Tuesday night we went to the Harmonic Civil Club. Mr. P. entered my name as a guest. They had a concert. The gardens were illuminated and everybody drank tea, etc. And they are so pleasant those Dutch open air concerts. The building is very fine, large billiard rooms, a splendid marble hall. Five reading rooms, where all the papers are, and everybody that is introduced is welcome.
Tuesday the 25th of October our cargo of Ice was discharged. It weighed out 800 tons. 1214 went in, a third melted, but it never does better than that. The rest of the week was used in discharging some ____ and the sawdust that the Ice was
packed in, over 60 tons of it! The ship was like a mountain out of water now, and the copper on her sides was so badly worn that I decided to go to Singapore at once and have her re-coppered. So we engaged 500 tons of coal for ballast and while the ship was setting ready, Capt. Proctor, Mr. Pearson decided to go to (Baiterzorg?), taking Pilgarlic along, all at the invitation and expense of Mr. P., there they do in Java. Baiterzorg is 40 miles away in the country at the foot of the mountains. It is the seat of the government, when the Governor General resides most of the time, and where the Botanical Gardens are second to none in the world. Mr. Pearson made all the arrangements. We were to take Port Chaise at half past four Saturday morning.
Long before that we were ready, each with a ____ suit. So the servants announced the vehicle was ready at the front, as they call it here. Well! The carriage was a hard looking affair. Old! I have seen something like it stowed
away in some gentleman’s carriage house, never to be used any more. Farm ponies were attached, such looking ponies! All in rope harnesses! However it is the way they all go to Baiterzorg here. So we get in, Pearson had a big valise and a lot of London magazines to read. Proctor had a valise and a lot of pipes and tobacco, and two bottles of water, and behind we had a box of about 200 hundred pounds of ice, so we were ready. Then there was a driver on the box with a long whip, beside him sat Mr. Pearson’s servant Edam, a stoical Javanese, who was also a driver. Then there were two boys perched on behind with whips to yell at the ponies and whip them when they got lazy; a totally jolly crowd.
Sketch note: As we appeared leaving the M_______ Hotel for Baiterzorg.
Crack went the whip, but the wheels did not budge. The boys grabbed the ponies by the lead but that was no use. Crack! Whip Crack! No go. Out came all the servants and tugged at the wheels and after an awful noise we started. I actually
felt cheap at the time, but as we drove out into the grey morning that soon passed away. I am not gifted enough to the describe the beauty of this fair city. To me it was perfectly splendid. After we rode six miles , we stopped and changed ponies, and also at every six miles on the road there are ports with relays of horses. The roads were smooth and level as a parlor floor. All ____ by ____. Now we began to come to Coffee Plantations, cocoanut groves. Mr. Pearson pointed out the different kinds of trees, there was the Sage, the Sun Dama, the ____, the Cottonwood. The telegraph wires are supported by the Cottonwood trees for they never rot or blow down. Majestic old trees they were, covered with all sorts of parasites. Soon we saw the rice plantations, and the laborers going to their work, all sizes and ages, and both sexes. The girls were real pretty, they never would look up at us. Sometimes there were…
…twenty or thirty of them trudging off, each with a knife to cut the stalk. There were lots of little villages along the way, where the peasants live. Their houses are small, built of Bamboo, and built as forts, about five feet off the ground to
keep snakes and vermin out. Troops of children, all naked, came out at each relay to beg from us, and Pearson always had something for them. As we were riding along the second port, there was a snap, crack and down went the after-part of the carriage. The spring had broken. Old Proctor was sitting on that part and how we laughed at him (he weighs 270 lbs.) Well, what was to be done? Pearson said we must leave it to the drivers, they would fix it, so we determined to walk on. But Proctor? No. He lighted his pipe and took his seat determined not to be done out of his ride. We could see the natives plowing with Bullochs as we walked on. The animals are very savage to a white man, and will attack one anywhere, they smelled us as far as they could see us and would turn up their noses and snort, but a native driver, if there is one with them will always keep them straight.
It is always good to have a tree at hand if one of them is round. They will gore and toss a man on their horns, frightfully, and never a black man. It makes a half-Cast feel quite proud to be tossed by a Bulloch, he brags of it among the
black men and calls himself superior. As we were walking by a stream, I saw a movement on the bank and then sure enough it was an alligator looking at us. A stone from Pearson, sent him off in a hurry. P. is left handed, and left handed folks always throw stones best. It puts me in mind of my big brother, Willie. He was a ____, and always throwing stones.
As we passed along the road, I saw that every native lifted his hat. I asked my friend the reason of this and he said, they were obliged to by law, __2__ to a European. We walked nearly a whole port (6 miles) before our chariot came up to us. There sat Old Proctor, a sight for all passers by to gaze on, no wonder the natives lift their hats to him. He is a magnificent specimen of the American Ship Master. He said they hard work to get started. They repaired the spring with pieces of rope, but when they started, the carriage…
…would not move. The road was rough, where laborers had been pounding up some new stone. All their exertions were in vain, till a train of Bulloch carts came along. By the rule of the country, every traveler must stop and help another in
distress. So with the driver and his whip and Edam, the two ____ and about 25 natives, tugging and hollering at the top of their lungs, they got started. Once started there was no trouble. These ponies go upon the clean run, and it would not do to let them out of it. The moment they slack, the two boys jump off with whips and run alongside, catch them by the headgear, put the whips into their flanks, yell, grunt, and run until they are under full speed again, then they jump on behind and rest a bit for another try. It is a jolly way to ride. You can hear your own ears. These boys change every time they change horses. If they have done well, they get a few coppers from the servant. His master gives him a pocketful for that purpose. And so we went on enjoying every instant of the way.
Not many Pilgarlics ever get such a drive as this. At least we can see the journeys end. Six mile right straight ahead, at the end of our road, stands the Governor General’s Palace, all dazzling white. It looks like one of the Heavenly
mansions on High, or rather perhaps ____ upon us like Aladin’s Palace. It was a sight I never shall forget. I feasted on it ‘till I was tired. At 10 we were on the outskirts of Baiterzorg First Pil ___ ____ over the way, elegant private mansions in the background, lakes and ____ boundless landscapes in the distance. Such avenues of trees I never saw or heard of, and this is what we came to see. At 11 AM we drove up to the door of (Bellevue?) Hotel, tired and hungry. So we took rooms on the back verandah, ordered a repast, and just gave ourselves up to a feast of sights, such as not often greets the eyes of sailors. The ____ at silence, at first made it lonely. Nobody is moving in the middle of the day. Nobody dresses till night, at dinnertime. We were to ride out this afternoon, ‘till evening, so we changed our clothes for the drive.
Mr. Pearson took us out to a kind of observatory, to look at the view. Oh!, the mountains, it seemed as though we could reach out our hands and reach them, still, they were many miles away, at least their summits. What a spectacle,
rushing down toward us there was a foaming river, roaring like a cauldron. Right back of the hotel there was a ____ place where a boat could sail, women bathing, men fishing with dip nets. All round were Palms and Bamboo, and numerous other trees, until they united with a dense jungle a few miles back. A heavy shower was coming down the mountainside, and soon we were glad to take shelter. Rain was no name for it. It pounded. It spoiled our ride, so we all went to sleep. How cool and pleasant it was. It rained nearly all afternoon, and we slept nearly all afternoon. At eight we went to dinner. There were few guests, one lady and this was all the talk. Mr. Pearson’s Ice was handed freely round, and was a great luxury up here. Everybody took their Sherry etc. but Mr. P. and I we are both ____.
In the evening, Mr. P. and I took a long walk. The storm had cleared up and the stars were out in splendid order. It was a little muddy but we did not care. On we went down the long avenues of Grand old trees that nearly went over our heads.
We had a good chance to see the Dutchmen at home. They always sit on the verandah in the evening. Their pictures hang out there, their birds, their plants- they are all round. There are not need of home plants here. Their tables are out there, then they take their tea and coffee and grog. Every Dutchman takes his grog in the evening, about a thimble full.. They sing, play, receive their friends all in the sights of passersby. One thing looks natural, the kerosene lamps. They all use kerosene direct from New York or Boston. Mr. P. told me much of his youth, how he was early an orphan of his school. Of his starting off to sea, of his long absence from England, of his battle for fortune, of his success. Of his old Grandfather’s (who was still living in England) tears when he heard his Billy Boy was true to his temperance principles, of his hopes in life, and all that was so interesting to me. So at last we got back to the Bellevue…
…And away we went to sleep and such sleep was well worth riding forty miles for. A cool breeze blew down the mountain, and sighed through the ill closed doors and windows, as the South wind used to blow up the river and shake the Apple
trees in the fall. When I was a boy, we found a blanket quite necessary to comfort that night. We left word in Batavia if there were letters for us by the mail, which was due, to send them up by port.
In the morning we were up early for a drive to Baltore Tulis, a small pond about three miles up the mountain. When we were going in ____. So taking our coffee and toast at five, sure enough, Letters! Two for Pilgarlic. A glance at one was enough, it bore the imprint of Gardiner. No more breakfast for me gentlemen! Away I went to my room. Four months my letters had been on the way, first it was one month from the time it was written ‘till it was stamped at the port office at home, then on to San Francisco, which would have been eight days. It there by some measure, went to Samarang in Java, why I never could make this was two months more, and the next day I…
…got it. Well it was a treat away in the wilds of India, to hear that they are all well at home. It was Sunday morning, and Pil did not forget it. He thanked Kind Providence for all his tender mercies to a poor wanderer and read his portion of
the Testament he brought with him. But they are waiting, and off we go. A lovely morning ride through coffee and rice plantations, ‘till we halt at a forest, on its skirts is an Indian village, in charge of an old ____ ____, or priest. He rejoices to see Mr. Pearson, who he knows and admits us to his premises. We are soon at the pond, a living fresh water pool, about as large as that at the Cascade in Hallowell and about 15 feet deep. In we go and are swimming round like so many fish, and picking the ferns that grow on it’s edge as we swim round. This was a bath fit for the Gods.
But we did not stay long, only a little while to look at the wonderful trees of different kinds that were growing round us. The old priest then had some coffee, (no sugar) and bread for us, of course we had to eat, he then showed round the village some of his women, men wearing cloth for the much-used native sarong, other men gathering…
…rice. They brought us different specimens of that, ____, and we picked lots of rare ferns, then we drove back to our hotel, after a rest and a solid breakfast, started for the famous Botanical Gardens. What we saw there in that one day will
last a lifetime. The space devoted to orchids, was a garden of itself- and there are over eighty different varieties there. Then I saw for the first time, the “Butterfly” orchid, the flower is a perfect butterfly…all but life itself. Proctor wanted to take it, but P. and I would not let him (there was only one in bloom.) While he was looking off in the distance, a pretty snail shell who had crawled up onto a leaf above his head. He did not want shells so he gave him to me. We saw the finest display of flowers “Victoria Regia” (lily water) that can be seen. The beautiful pond was covered in them. They say the leaves are strong enough to hold a baby, they are certainly large enough and curl at the edges like a boat, or basin. Among all them sailed along majestically, the Black Swan, also the White, but what delighted me most was the fan of Travelers Palm. I had read of them but never seen them before.
There were over thirty different kinds of palms that I counted, and the fern were legion. Here they grow to full size trees, The Norfolk Island Palm is a splendid specimen, but what gives the garden a most beautiful appearance is the different
colors of the foliage. Some scarlet, some blue, some yellow, and yellow and green, among the trees and shrubs, a strange tree I saw; a double cocoanut.
We entered a lofty Bamboo grove, the trees had been planted in clusters, at regular distances and they sprang up like fluted columns of a mighty cathedral, then the top of the tree fell apart ‘till they joined with others and made perfect- grand gothic arches, no sunlight could penetrate the place, all was solemn shade, and perfect silence reigned. I felt as though it was a sacred place, and soon enough a white marble room was seen glittering through the trees. We had come to the burial place of the ruling families of Java.
No grander cemetery could be found, as we walked on looking at the sculptured effigies of the dead, I suddenly read, “Lady Raffles” died early this century. What ____ of thought reached through my brain. When I was a boy, at school we read
in the Rhetorical Reader, it was an exciting piece that always captivated me. It was the burning of a ship at sea, on board was Sir Stanford Raffles and his wife. As they were hurrying into the boast, the order was given; Lower! Lady Raffles! Lower! How I wondered what that could mean. That piece our school master, Thom Leavitt, generally read to show the boys what good reading was, well many of that school have gone to their ____ home, the Master with them, and here 15000 miles away stood the little boy, now an old man by the grave of that same lady. My mind whirled away to that old schoolhouse on the frozen hills of Maine. In spite of myself, again I was warming my hands at that old cracked stove and again I heard Thom Leavitt’s voice- “Lower! Lady Raffles, Lower!”
Designs on these pages below, saved by Capt. John Drew-
Looks like Javanese writing on a red background.
Page of pressed flowers from voyage
Out here I often saw Coolies carrying bundles of short pieces of Bamboo. At last I asked what that was for. Why don’t you know? They are carrying water. Yes, the Bamboo are hollow and they fill them to carry, as we carry it in pails. We got
back to our hotel at about 2PM. We should have spent a week in those gardens. But the ship! She must be attended to. Only think of a ____ sailor like Pilgarlic, ____ in the interior of Java. That never would do.
In the afternoon our friends planned a drive for nine miles in another direction from what we had been. We went to some sugar mills, and to some ancient Buddhist burial grounds. There is a small enclosure, we saw, when a Buddhist woman, I believe, came from its other world, and stood at the grave of a friend. The rock she stood on, plainly show the marks of a small pair of feet. I was delighted at a suspension bridge built entirely of bamboo, over which a carriage could safely drive. Perhaps these suspension bridges were in use way before our (wire?) ones were made.
We came back by another road which led by a beautiful stream that was foaming and tumbling down off the mountains. Sometimes they have ____ here that carry everything before them. Arrived at the Bellevue in time for dinner, and had a
long talk with our host. He was in Shanghai once when I was there, traveling with an American Circus. His name is Carlo, an Italian, and I was surprised to find him so intelligent, even refined in his manners. He had located here for the sake of the game, in which this country abound. He showed us the heads of a male and female Rhinoceros he had lately shot. Lions and bears are plenty here. He gave Capt. Proctor and myself each a (Maulay?) sun hat, of which we wear quite proud. In the afternoon, quite a lot of peddlers come round before we went out and we bought cases of coffee, wood, silver trinkets made here, to give our loved ones when we should get home. So making arrangements for an early start in the morning we went to sleep.
At half past four we were up and five o’clock saw us off- a better carriage and ____ horses, and we did go like (jeher?). We had the opportunity of seeing over again all we saw on the passage up, without any breakdowns or mishaps
At nine we were in Batavia and stopped Mr. Pearson’s to breakfast, and royally did we enjoy it- Yorkshire ham and eggs. Just the thing after a long ride. And here ended our journey to Baitenzorg. “It was an hour snatched from Heaven” to Pilgarlic. He felt all the time he had no business there. It was too good for such as follow the sea.
Well! I found a telegram for the Franklin to work her way to China so our voyage to Singapore was all in _____, next Tuesday. We went to the museum in Batavia. It is a well worthy visit and is a collection of everything that is rare in the Dutch East Indies. The instruments of Death were enough to make …
…one shudder. Among the real curious were files of papers of the ____ that the English had possession of the Islands it was while they were at war with America, the Sec. time. There was the correspondence between President Monroe and the
English commander in chief in regard to the burning of Washington. The carriages of Buddhist Deities are very numerous and very fine.
We were back in the Marine Hotel. There were lots of boarders, many little children. I got a bottle of confectionary, and it was the secret of their coming to my door so much. Among the Captains there was one Capt. Of the Glasgow ship “Country of Sterling” and was from (Ebbing?), and his name “Delgarno”, a splendid looking man, and often taken for Capt. Proctor. Some years ago, he was in command of a ship bound from Australia to England, near the Auckland Isles (in very high Southern Latitude), the ship was becalmed and drifted into the rocks. They had just time to jump into the…
…boats when she went down. Part of them were saved, some drowned, they landed on the Island and for 13 months they lived in huts without any clothes on the frosty ground ‘till all but three died! The tears came into the poor fellow eyes
as he told the story. He was a young man when he went on there . When he came off, he was as grey as a man of 70. The worst was thirst. 20 miles from them through the jungle on the other end of the Island was another shipwrecked crew who were comfortable, had everything and built a small vessel and part of them went to New Zealand and got a vessel to go to the rescue of the rest. A year after that Capt. Delgarno was taken off, the American ship General Grant was lost in the same place and the crew were not heard of for three years. Capt. Delgarno was taken to Callaou, and as the steamer for England sailed the same day of his arrival, he took passage in it, thus he carried news home the news of his being alive.
In the meantime, he had long been believed dead, the insurance on the ship had
been long paid. His wife had died broken hearted, leaving two helpless orphan children, and subscriptions had been taken up for their aid. He appeared to them like a man from another world.
Thus it is that truth is stranger than fiction. Many were the tears that were shed as this quiet, weather-beaten old tar told his touching story. Thank God not many sailors are called upon to suffer as this gentleman did. My Mate Mr. Vannah was in Callaou, when he landed. And remembers well the excitement it created.
But the poor wife, she could not come back. I have a fine photograph of him, which I would not part with for considerable. Then some of the thoughtless one here, call him Robinson Crusoe, sailors will have their jokes, but it seems to me too cruel to make sport of.
Dining here, is spending the evening for no one dines until seven. After dinner, Tea and Coffee, cigars Etc. Then music if there is any. I have dined with Mr. P. several times. He lives with two friends; Albers & Schroeder. Partners in the
German House of ____, Schroeder & Co. They are young men of fine intelligence, and of the real German school, and so intensely patriotic about the War. Albers is a fine singer, and when I go there in the evenings, I can hear him for some time before I get to the house. They keep ____ Hall.
Wednesday night we went by special invitation to the American ____ to dinner. He is a rich merchant, and he has travelled far and wide, lately in America. (he is a Dutchman) He thinks everything of the Americans. He sent his family carriage for us at seven. As we drove away from the front of the hotel, there was quite a stir, for it was the finest carriage(private one) in Batavia. It was delicious to be rolled along like this under the Tropical moon. No hats, and such richness of perfume from the flora of the city. At half past seven we were landed at his home, in great pomp…
…for these old sailors (Capt. Freeman, Capt. Thayer, and Pilgarlic.) He regretted very much but his wife was away for her health in the mountains. He was quite tired of this bachelor way of living, and was very glad to see us. Talk about
luxury, seeing it piled up here, nothing lacking that money can buy. But the dinner which was brought on in a few minutes was proper. Flowers, there was no end to them. And silver, quite enough of that too. It looks pretty, the way they lay their tables here. There are always three exquisitely cut wine glasses at each plate, and as they pass their different wines round, the servants look with surprise and wonder at Pilgarlic who always asks his host if he may be excused. Certainly a gentleman and too well brad to take any notice, but they think it very strange, that a man won’t drink wine. Our Course was so intelligent and so glad to have Americans to talk with, that the time flew rapidly away, and at dinner was over, what next? A look at his splendid Books, Pictures, Etc. I was deeply into an illustrated copy of Dante’s Inferno when, we were …
…invited to the carriage, there was a concert at the Botanical Gardens, and we all said yes, and off we went. Such an enjoyable evening I did not expect to pass, but we were all made to feel that we were men at home. The music was
delicious, beautiful women, bare headed and bare armed, with their gems flashing in the ____ light. Troops of merry children singing under the trees, groups of sturdy officers of high rank discussing the War, and each table occupied by some loving family, made the scene one long to be remembered. Our ___ knew everybody and many were the low bows made to him, he would introduce us but we declined, and so this evening passed away.
The Dutchmen this week have had a great event. The laying of an ocean (submarine?) cable, to go to Singapore and connect them with the world. The ship came out from England direct, The S.S Hibernia. One day we went on board and saw the Cable, and all the apparatus. It is very simple, and the Captain who I became acquainted with told me it was all sailors work, and his sailors the best cable men in the world.
Next day, the Governor General, his whole staff, etc. went on board in a small steamer. All around our ship lay the Men O’ War, one larger Frenchman. All the ships were dressed in their gayest colors. As he passed through, a grand roar of
artillery burst forth, ‘till the old Bay fairly shook with the thunder of War. Next day was Sunday, and the telegraph or, the ”cable ship” as she is called was crowded with visitors of all classes. A many ____ other curious. I have a piece of the cable. The English have a little church in Batavia, hearing of it I went, approaching the door I ____ if this was the church. Yes. Feeling that I was a stranger, I did not take a seat, waiting to be invited, but I waited in view. Carriage after carriage drove up, well dressed people, with their gilt prayer books looked at me and passed in. At last the service began, and finding that everybody was so busy that I should not be asked in, I walked off. This is a fair experience of English Churches, as I have seen them. No where will anybody be invited as in our Beloved America.
The time was now approaching for us to go out to sea. We had been here long enough. Our freight was put on board by a queer old character. Landberg, a Norwegian, who had been to school a little in London, served his time as
apprentice in an English (colyer?), then went to the “States” as America is always called by foreigners. In 1815 he Capt. of a Brig running between New Orleans and Havana. Finally he went to Rotter-dam, and sold his Brig there. The purchase persuaded him to remain Captain. In time he got to be a regular trader to Batavia, then as now. The “Dutchman’s Paradise” (and no wonder) finally he settled then, got his family out, then went into trade, and is now the owner of twelve ships besides some steamers. I had occasion to call on his residence one evening on business. There was a social gathering on the verandah and I had to interrupt him. God Bless you Sir, you are an American. We are celebrating my 82nd birthday! Come in Sir, Do! No thank you, I am in a hurry. But will you take something? No Sir! Take a glass of wine? No Sir.
A Teatotaler? Yes Sir, I believe so! Bless your souls! You don’t mean it. Yes sir, I have not taken a glass of wine for 37 years nearly! The old gentleman saw my meaning at once. Said he, I can beat that. I have not taken any for 82 years!
One of his sons, an elderly looking gentleman, said More fool you Father to telling of it. I’m going to take some now. Well Sir, says the old man, you don’t see many of them, meaning totalers, do you? No Sir. I think I am a pretty good proof of what total abstinence can do. I am not ashamed of it Sir. Fought some pretty hard battles in my life, with the Demon, but thank God there is no fear of me now. But you ____ came in? In a few days, my wife will be 80. What a lovely sight it was to see that noble heroic old man standing up with ____ and know of 82 years on his head and it being for the cause of Total Abstinence. It was a thousand ____ lectures combined into one. Ah! Said he used to tremble for the country (America) when you were fighting your awful war.
What did you think Captain Landberg? Well! I was a southerner you know, but I loved the old flag best. So when ever can get an American Captain to talk to, He fights his old battles over.
Well! The ship is about ready. The last day I am so busy that I don’t go on board, paying up bills, making up accounts, writing one’s letters, etc.- But I hear from the ship. The mate and two men are down sick with Java fever. This is good news. Well, I work all day, without stopping to eat anything. At 4 PM I am ready to go to sea. Mr. Pearson and Capt. freeman have come down to see me off. I take my papers and start. Have to pull alongside the guard ship and have them ____, then along to our own ship. It is too dark to go to sea. The mate is sick and two men. But we went not ____, or they will all be sick. Capt. Thayer says to take plenty of Quinine! Saturday night, a good night’s sleep and at 4AM, we are up and ready. It is the first time I have ever sailed Sunday, but it is a…
…case of necessity, and she must go. So ____ deck! And “anchors away Sir!” aye aye I’ll away the ____ ____. Steady the wheel, and the brave old ship swings on her keel once more, and is off. Good Bye Batavia. Good bye lovely
Java, God Bless you all, and keeping her N.N.W.(North, North-West) for the coast of Borneo. Pilgarlic is alone once more.
The mate is not very sick, he keeps up through sheer pluck, but the men, they have a cough. We have a pleasant Sunday, our usual religious services in the cabin, at nine and Monday morning finds Shoe Island insight. We have 130 miles from Batavia. I go into the forecastle to see how the sick ones are, and find two men, very sick. Soon the carpenter is complaining, next the cook, Oh No. Don’t you get sick! We have a steward who will do none but the gruel and broth for the rest? And Pilgarlic, if you should get sick, what a pretty kettle of fish we should all be in. No, no Pilgarlic you must keep well.